Lately, my blog has been overtaken by makeup ( my first true love), but fashion never stays in the backseat for too long. This week I came across some interesting infographics regarding proper "fit." I'm not discussing pictures on Pinterest that glorify a perfectly trainer-sculpted abdomen that is highlighted with some tricky Photoshop effects. No, I'm talking about how your clothes should fit on you. The way clothes fit is just as important, is not more so, than color, textile, comfort (scoff), and visual appeal. It doesn't matter how much a dress cost you, or which designer has their insignia on the interior label. What matters is how that dress rests on your curves or cinches in all of the right places.
Over the next few weeks I will be providing free lessons on fit (you lucky bastards). This evening it is raining ice in Iowa, so let's talk about the general category of outwear.
I absolutely adore outwear of all sorts: coats, jackets, blazers, and all the rest (I couldn't think of any others at the moment, to be honest). Due to function, outerwear pieces tend to be more of an investment rather than a throw away trend. Perhaps, above all, this means that outerwear should be given the most attention when it comes to fit.
Avoid the pull.This should go without say, as there is nothing that makes your outfit look more cheap, or you more overtly uncomfortable than a jacket or coat that pulls. It doesn't matter what type of outerwear we are taking in to consideration: if it pulls, it doesn't fit, so put it back and try again.
If you are unfamiliar with pulling, it is when the space between too seams is too tight across a given area of your body. This is most commonly seen across the chest, back, and in the shoulders. Imagine taking a piece of fabric in your hands and gripping it in the middle of the edge on either opposing side. If you pull (hint hint) the sides, you will notice ripples that form perpendicular to your fists. The tension from the fabric is forced to take from the areas where there is less tension (above and below) which causes this wave like effect.
If you come across pulling it is likely because your sizing is off or certain parts of your body aren't proportionate to what is considered the "standard" form for textiles and fashion manufacturing. This sounds like a passive way to say you are "fat and lumpy," but this isn't the case. Pulling can also be the result of the textiles that items are made from. Outerwear is made from fabrics that aren't commonly found on everyday clothing, take wool, for example. Wool, unlike cotton or spandex which is in most of our day-to-day items, does not stretch or give like other textiles. It is heavier and harder to manipulate, thus, it is doesn't provide you much wiggle room (so many puns).
The general remedy to all three of the above culprits is to go up a size. It can be a shot to the ego, but when something fits correctly and looks good, the size is irrelevant (actually, size is always irrelevant). It is likely that by picking a size bigger than what you normally wear, you are adding a few extra centimeters in the areas that are pulling.
This remedy is a double edged sword, though. If a jacket fits perfectly everywhere but in one or two places, it is likely you are going to just reverse the problems in your situation. Sure, the shoulders are no longer snug and tight, but the waist may be eating you alive. When you run in to this problem you aren't necessarily at a dead end. If the item is a must have and you would feel immense guilt leaving it on the rack for some unappreciative commoner to scoop up, then tailoring is your next step. Alterations can do amazing work, but there is a limit to how many miracles they can perform. Remember, it is easier to fix something too long or too big than too short or small. If everything fits, but the arms are too long, that is an inexpensive and quick fix. Unless you are a skilled seamstress or know of one (hi mom!), it's not something you can undo and fix on your own.
If these options aren't viable or don't work, then just walk away. There is no amount of tackiness that is worth what a poorly fitting jacket will provide.
Cut the vent.
Go to your closet right now. Grab every blazer, jacket, and coat you have. Flip them over so they are face down. Look at the bottom of the jacket. Is there a slice in the middle that is held together with a single piece of thread in the shape of an "x?" Yes? Hang your head in shame and get your scissors out. This slit, called a vent, allows a jacket or coat to comfortably move with you throughout the day. It makes the garment less constricting near the area of your body that generates the most movement. These vents are sewn shut at the end of manufacturing the ensure that during the packing and shipping process they don't become flattened at an angle, creating a crease that will never come out. Once you purchase a coat you should cut the vent before entering public. The thread that holds the vent together is often a single line that pulls out in one piece.
Hardware should match.
Sometimes I think designers let their interns choose the hardware when a design is nearing completion. Hardware, in my opinion (therefore, your opinion too), should receive just as much consideration as any other part of the design process. The hardware should match the style and function of any garment. A perfect example of this is a vintage style motorcycle jacket. If the leather is roughed up, the zippers shouldn't be a shiny gold or silver. Hardware that doesn't blend makes the garment look like more of an afterthought. Hardware is generally an easy replacement, so don't count a great buy out just because of a few odd looking buttons. Think of it as a chance to create your own one of a kind piece.
Fabric should be manageable.
As I mentioned before, outerwear comes in fabrics that are less common elsewhere in your wardrobe. Think about the fuzz that will be attracted to your new black jacket when you throw it in with your other clothes. That winter white coat may look sharp going in to Starbucks, but when you spill your coffee all over it after tripping over ice in the parking lot, then you are in for a run to the dry cleaners.
Outerwear is paramount to your other clothing because it is.....on the outside. People notice it first, it covers much of your body, and you wear it day after day. This means it requires different care from your yoga pants or pressed shirts.
Don't forget about its function.
When trying on outerwear items, don't forget what its purpose is. If you are buying a blazer for work, think about what is going underneath it or on top of it. If you are buying a winter coat, take in to consideration how heavy the sweaters are that you may be wearing underneath. If you are picking up a spring jacket, note how short it may be cropped and what challenges that might present with your seasonal wardrobe.
Important notes on closures.
Closures are any pieces or hardware or additional fabric that serve the purpose of closing any or all of the garment. This includes buttons, snaps, zippers, or belts. While closures can serve an aesthetic or novelty purpose, they are often meant to be intentional and functional. Each type of closure comes with its own set of potential struggles.
After buying a jacket, take a look at how well the buttons are secured to the garment. Depending on the style of the button, it made not be appropriately adhered and therefore, it may not last long when constantly being secured and unsecured. If you anticipate that this may be an issues, grab a needle and thread and sew them extra tight. If you don't know how to sew a button then may God have mercy on your soul.
Buttoning heavy outerwear is entirely up to the individual. Buttoning a blazer, on the other hand, actually has some guidelines. The general rule when buttoning a blazer is this: always button the top button, sometimes button the middle button, never button the bottom button. Always, sometimes, never. This applies to three button blazers, but can also be adapted for those with only two (just get rid of the middle button).
Snaps are somewhat uncommon on outerwear items, but are still worth mentioning. Always be sure to test out snaps to ensure that they actually do what their namesake implies. Occasionally snaps can become bent in the shipping and merchandising process, and lose their ability to close. Snaps are an easy fix at the hands of a tailor, but depending on what you are buying, they may not be worth the hassle. Additionally, snaps look dreadful if they produce any pulling. Always test snaps out once you have a garment on, as it may still not fit once closed.
Zippers are one of my favorite types of closures because they provide a little bit of an edge to items. Plus, they are fun to play with. Be sure to give the zippers a try before purchasing any outerwear. Zippers on outerwear tend to be a bit more heavy duty, as they should be, but can occasionally be difficult, if not impossible, to zip. Give them a quick up and down and make sure that the teeth are properly aligned and don't catch.
One final, yet very important note on zippers: if you have large boobs, zippered closures may inhibit your ability to fully inflate your lungs. They can also produce the effect of a uni-boob (singular mass of boob flesh) that is unsightly at best. Proceed with caution.
Ties or belts tend to be the most foolproof of all closures. Aside from making sure that a coat or jacket meant to come with a tie actually has it, that is about all the surveying you need to do. That said, unlike the other closure types, a belted closure doesn't allow you to necessarily choose whether you use it or not. If a jacket or coat has a belt, you should always use it. If you leave it hanging, your coat may look more like a robe. If you remove it but don't take the belt loops off, then you run the risk of looking like your forgot something.
And so we have a tutorial in how outerwear should fit. Outerwear isn't cheap and never will be, thus it shouldn't look that way on you. Invest in a pieces that are versatile, timeless, staples. Trenches, pea coats, and fitted blazers will always find a place in your wardrobe.
