My love for lipstick has only been relatively recent. A few years ago the idea of wearing something on my lips that was not within a one or two shade range of my natural lip color was unheard of. There were simply too many things that could go wrong. Would it end up on my teeth? How do I know what type of shade is right? How do I know what finish I want? Is lip liner necessary? What about reapplication? I already have full lips, am I going to look like the clown in It? Just thinking about these things is stressful enough to make me want to put all of my makeup away. The easiest answer to all of these questions, I have discovered is: you'll figure it out.
I took the proverbial plunge one Christmas. My mother had purchased me some cosmetics from Sephora and because it was around a holiday, the package came with a ton of free samples (which are my favorite). One of these samples was a small lipstick tube from the brand Makeup Forever. When I opened the tube I was presented with the most florescent shade of pink I could imagine. I loved the color potential immediately, but had no idea of how or when to use it. I was only vaguely familiar with the brand. All I knew up to that point was that they did not retouch their models' makeup in print ad's. This was supposed to be a testament to the quality of their product.
The tube of lipstick sat in my makeup collection for at least a month before I finally broke it out. I knew that bright red lips always look stunning with a simple winged eye, so I assumed that hot pink would do just the same. I broke out the black liner and lipstick and decided just to wing it (ah, a pun). I had no lip liner or other materials to prep my mouth. Luckily the color went on precisely and looked fantastic with minimal effort from myself. Within a few moments the color dried to a matte finish and had not yet ended up on my teeth or skin. It just so happens that my first real experience with noticeable lip color was the best it could be. The color was shocking. The brand was fantastic. The wearability was spot-on. Shortly after my success with that tiny little sample, I started stocking up on all manner of shades. I collected a bevy of reds, oranges (yes, orange!), and pinks. I kept away from anything that could be labeled as natural or subtle and went for a raver-in-daylight look.
Lipstick is a terrifying product because there is so much potential for application to go awry. I would like to think at this point I have it all figured out. Follow these steps and you'll be set.
1. I always plan ahead so I know on what days I plan to wear lip color in order to coordinate with my chosen outfit. Because of this, I am able to prep my lips ahead of time. In the evening, just before bed, I slather on a metric ton of lip balm (usually Carmex). I try to get as much on my lips as possible so it will continue to absorb all night. In the morning I wipe off any excess and usually at least some dead skin that has loosened up as a result.
2. As I am getting ready in the morning I use a lip exfloliator to loosen up any last bits of loose lip skin (that just sounds awful). The brand Soap and Glory has a fantastic one called Mighty Mouth. One one end is a smooth lip balm and the other is a exfoliating balm. Used together, they prepare your lips to be the perfect canvas.
3. After exfoliating I add a thin layer of regular lip balm (anything works). It may seem like just an extra step, but some lip sticks can really dry out your lips throughout the day. Generally lip pigments don'e lend themselves well to layering with balms and thus, it is either one or the other. Therefore, I use a balm right before application to give myself as much moisture as possible before final application.
4. Now we get to the fun stuff. Wipe off the lip balm and any other residue that may be on your lips (I recommend brushing and flossing be finished before going forward). Make sure you are woking with a clean slate. Anything that is on your lips is going to mix with your choice of lipstick and this can mess with coloration or finish.
5. You can apply your lipstick with a brush or straight from the tube. If you have a steady enough hand, using a brush isn't necessary. I have used brushes before and didn't see any benefits one way or another. The only time I have found them absolutely necessary is when using any type of color that comes in a pot or squeeze tube. Start in the middle of your bottom lip, since that provides you with the most uninterrupted space (this allows you to ensure you are comfortable with the color). Smooth a thin layer all through the middle of your top and bottom lip. Slowly point and dot the pointiest end along the inner perimeter of your top and bottom lips. Avoid dragging the lipstick because it is easier to color outside the lines that way (which in this case isn't a cute move). Connect the dots you created and fill in any spaces.
6. Blot your lips using a Kleenex or other thin cloth that won't leave fibers on your lips. The blotting may seem dated, but it is what keeps your pearly whites white.
And there you go. Depending on what type of finish you select (creamy vs. matte, for example) reapplication throughout the day may be necessary. Matte lipsticks have the longest wearability but tend to dry out the lips the most. Creamy finishes need more frequent application, but won't leave you feeling parched at the end of the day.
As for picking out colors: do whatever the fuck you want. That's my philosophy at least. I have orange hair and wear neon orange lipstick because I'm fabulous and that's what I want to wear. I suggest you do the same. It is most important to make sure not that the color matches your skin tone, but that you are comfortable in the color.
I've encountered several great lipstick brands and would highly recommend the following: LimeCrime, Makeup Forever, and Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics.
